I love to cook what I love to eat and there is nothing
better than the flavor and versatility that can be achieved with shellfish. At
Lake Forest Place you will see seafood peppered throughout our menus. Lobster,
crab and shrimp add an extra touch to the fine dining experience we provide. But
when it comes to cooking with oysters, mussels and scallops, I just can’t get
enough.
Eating oysters is always a culinary
adventure, with such a wide variety to choose from, they are a chef’s dream to
prepare. The east coast blue point
oyster offers a briny, yet fresh salt water flavor while the west coast
kumamoto provides a completely different experience with a refreshing cucumber
essence. Either raw on the half shell or roasted on the grill, you are always
in for a special treat when it comes to eating oysters. Recently I have
incorporated them into my menu using several different techniques; on the half
shell, a traditional oyster roast and smoked oysters for brunch.
The classic oyster on the half
shell accompanied with a house made cocktail sauce and house made mignonette
sauce allow the natural flavor of the oyster to shine through. We did a traditional
oyster roast at our Carolina Low Country dinner that proved to be a whole new
adventure for our residents. Grilling the oysters over an open fire and
covering them with a water soaked burlap sack elevated the flavor and texture
to a whole new level. The heat from the grill and the steam from the burlap led
to an unbelievable layering of flavors and mouth feel, mellowing the brininess
and causing the oyster to swell to the perfect firm texture.
Oysters and mussels are highlighted
every week on my Sunday Brunch menu. Smoking the oysters adds a new flavor
profile. The smoke combined with the brine like salt water packs a powerful
flavor punch. They are then served with an array of other smoked fish, bagels
and cream cheese.
One of my best sellers on the menu
is my version of the French classic Moules Marinieres, mussels in white wine.
In my preparation, I strive for a lightness that is achieved by eliminating
heavy cream. I blend garlic, shallots, butter, white wine and fresh herbs with
the mussels, I serve it with a crusty French baguette to soak up all the
delicious broth. I choose to use P.E.I (Prince Edward Island) mussels, as I find
that the perfect size, texture and sea flavor from the cold north Gulf of
St.Lawrence takes my dish over the top. Not
only do these mussels provide the flavor profile I am looking for, they are
also sustainable and all natural. P.E.I Mussels start out with mussel seeds
growing on collector ropes suspended in the ocean. The seed is collected from
the wild, not hatcheries.
I also use scallops in several
different ways on my menus. With such great versatility, I can smoke them for
my Sunday brunch or prepare them my favorite way with some sea salt, pepper and
clarified butter to bring out the natural sweet flavor. When purchasing my scallops, I take many
variables into consideration like wet vs dry, diver vs no diver and size. I prefer
the U-10 dry pack diver scallops (U-10 refers to the size; 10 or less per pound
or an average of 1.6oz per scallop). The dry scallops are shucked on the boat,
but go into a dry container with no water or preservatives. Again, like my
mussels, I prefer the natural route. This creates a more pure and concentrated
flavor. Their short shelf-life ensures freshness at purchase. Wet packed
scallops are shucked on the boat but go directly into a cold water-filled
container, which lengthens the preservation time (often a preservative or
chemical salt is used to prevent the scallops from spoiling). Unfortunately,
the scallops absorb water and become plump, which reduces the flavor and
creates a tougher texture. Scallops packed in this manner tend to be older by the
time they reach their destination. Finally, Diver refers to the method of
harvesting. Instead of being dredged, these scallops are harvested by the hands
of divers. Though incredibly labor intensive, it is far less damaging to the
environment than disrupting the ocean floor with nets. One of my personal
favorite scallop dishes is my pan seared diver scallop with Moroccan spiced
beluga lentils, English pea puree, saffron cream and micro basil.
Letting the natural flavors shine through is the most
important aspect to me when preparing seafood. Heavy sauces and intense
seasoning will only cover up the innately delicious flavor of seafood. It is
also important not to overcook seafood because it is lean, naturally, and will
therefor easily and quickly dry out.
With all the different seafood varieties available, the menu
possibilities are endless and I will continue to make seafood a staple on my
menus here at Lake Forest Place.
Executive Chef Robert MacClure
